Thursday, January 13, 2011

NPK what?

     If you’ve even gardened for a little while chances are you’ve purchased fertilizer. One of the top 5 questions I’m asked is “what should I feed my plants”? Well, in order to answer that you need to understand some of the basic physiology of plants.

     First, there are two types of nutrients plants need, macro and micro. The primary, or macro, nutrients necessary are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, commonly referred to as “N-P-K”.  Others that are necessary in small, or micro, quantities are minerals such as calcium, magnesium, sulfur, boron and copper. In total there are 13 mineral nutrients, 3 macro and 10 micro necessary for plants to survive. Newer research has shown that there could be 11 micros, however most of the “professional” books I have say 10.

     So, NPK means “Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium” right? On the bottle of fertilizer manufactures usually don’t say “NPK” but rather they represent the total percentage of each mineral in that substance in a format like 10-4-3. That means the fertilizer you’re looking at is 10% Nitrogen, 4% Phosphorus and 3% Potassium. Ok, great, what does this mean and how can I use it?

     An easy way to figure out how much of each you need is to go back to the plant physiology. Nitrogen is used by the plant primarily for foliar (leaf) production. Phosphorus is used for root and flower production. Potassium is used for fruit production and disease resistance. My simple shorthand:

   N = Leaves
   P = Roots & Flowers
   K = Fruit & Disease

     A good example would be Tomatoes. During the initial growth cycle you would want a fertilizer higher in N and P to help establish roots and promote foliage development. During the latter stage, as in the garden, you would want lowered N and higher P & K. High levels of N for things like peppers and tomatoes produces beautiful foliage on the plants but very little to actually eat.

Some common NPK’s are:

   Bone meal – 1-13-0
   Blood meal – 13-0-0
   Mushroom compost – 2-1-1
   Fish emulsion – 2-4-1

     I have found that, much like everything else gardening, simple is better. In the ground most of the micronutrients are supplied by Mother Nature, what you really need to augment are the NPK minerals. Over the past couple years I’ve settled into Daniels 10-4-3 for everything as it includes micro’s. These are critical to me since we grow primarily in pots and not in the ground.

Some good reading on the subject:

http://www.ncagr.gov/cyber/kidswrld/plant/nutrient.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NPK_rating
http://www.planetnatural.com/site/xdpy/kb/n-p-k-organic-fertilizers.html

And if you want to get really geeky on the subject:

http://www.ballpublishing.com/ballpub/_RedBook.aspx

Monday, January 10, 2011

Zone 5: Tomatoes From Seed

It’s January, the high yesterday was just at freezing, but it’s time to start planning for this year’s garden. Today I’m going to focus on starting tomato seeds in my zone, 5.

The first thing you have to watch out for, which I also suffered from, is starting too early. Since it’s January, this month you’ll want to go through your catalogs, order the ones you want and come up with a plan. Resist the urge to actually plant them!

When to start? The USDA says the last average frost date for zone 5 is somewhere around May 25th, personally, I shoot for a “ready date” of May 15th. Tomatoes take around 8 weeks to be ready for transplant so back up 8 weeks from May 15th and start around March 15th. A good general plan is start around St. Patrick’s Day for transplant around Mother’s Day.

The first thing you need is a spot in the house that’s decently warm and receives a good amount of sun, that is, when there actually IS sun in the winter. A south facing window is a good spot since the sun is quite low in the southern sky this time of year. If you don’t get enough natural sunlight, fluorescent lamps work quite well for supplemental lighting.

What you start the seeds in can be as elaborate or as simple as you want. I’ve seen all the way from an old strawberry containers to elaborate indoor greenhouse systems. It’s completely up to you. Personally, I like moderately simple, a 1020 flat, some inserts and seed starting mix under fluorescent lamps.

The part I can’t stress enough is seed starting soil: buy it new. Don’t use garden soil or potting soil, buy a quality seed starting mix. Seedlings are extremely susceptible to pathogens that result in what’s called “damping off”. Good quality seed starting mix has been sterilized which greatly reduces these problems. I say this having lost MANY seedlings to damping off diseases.

Perhaps one of the most common questions people ask me is “why are my tomato seedlings stretching out and are so leggy”? This is usually a combination of two things: high temperature and low light. Lower the ambient temperature and increase the light levels and you’ll find that you get shorter, stockier plants for transplant.

The second most common question is “what should I feed my tomato seedlings”? I always recommend fish emulsion at 1/2 the rate recommended on the bottle. Feed with that mixture once or twice a week until transplant.

Now, these are of course just my recommendations based on what has worked for me. If you have a system that works for you, by all means let me know!

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Book Review: The Complete Herb Book

Title: The Complete Herb Book
Author: Jekka McVicar
Publisher: Firefly
ISBN: 1-55407-365-0
Pages: 304

I first discovered this book at our local library and after returning it found that I couldn’t live without it. In a word: superb.

While this book is not available in hard cover the quality of the paper and printing more than makes up for that. One thing that stuck out immediately to me was the quality and quantity of full color photographs throughout.

The first 10 pages of introduction and instructions are to the point and definitely shows the “no fluff”, yet fun, attitude throughout. Many horticulture reference books read like textbooks but not in this case. The author is able to present what is essentially reference information in a quite interesting, and readable way.

Starting at page 10 you get an A-Z of perhaps 150 herbs, many of which I had never heard of until reading it. Each entry contains information on etymology, varieties, cultivation (propagation, pests & diseases, maintenance, garden planting), companion planting, container growing as well as culinary, cosmetic and medicinal uses. If the plant is toxic or dangerous in any way, warnings with details are visibly noted.

The last 40 pages of the book contains information on herb garden planning, natural dyes, drying, essential oils and harvesting. These are short chapters and are not meant to be a treatise on each subject, however there is still quite useful information.

Since purchasing my copy I have given it as a gift as well. If you have friends or family that are herb gardeners this is the perfect gift. I have used it as reference to help customers as well as for greenhouse crop planning.

If all you can have is one book on herbs, make it this one.

Monday, April 26, 2010

Zone 5: Tomatoes

Well, here's my first post in my new series named Zone 5. What does that name mean you ask? Well, I'm going to be writing about topics specific to my growing zone which is, you guessed it, zone 5.

What's a zone you might ask and why is it important? Well, the USDA splits the US up into zones based on winter low temperatures. Plant breeders and growers test their material to be "hardy" to different zones. So, if you buy a plant that says it's hardy to your zone you have a much better chance of it surviving the winter. Notice I didn't say guarantee, there's no guarantee. You can find your zone here or here.

With that, here's something I've noticed: why do people in zone 5 buy Tomato plants in April? If you check the USDA zone map our last frost is towards the end of May. Guess what, frost KILLS things like tomatoes. Despite that, even if there wasn't a frost, tomato plants won't have noticeable growth until the soil warms up to around 70 degrees. Couple that with the fact that even if the tomato has a flower on it, they won't produce fruit until the air temp is between 70 and 80 degrees.

Moral of the story here: wait until May. Spend your money on perennials or shrubs and get them in the ground. Well, so long as they're hardy in zone 5!

Monday, February 22, 2010

Concord Magazine Hoop House

Just ran across this great DIY for a hoophouse bender via the hightunnels mailing list. Just because they did it at the White House suddenly it's all the rage? Looks like an interesting way to make some tunnels for crop protection.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Plant Propagation Basics

LIFE FINDS A WAY
It's really easy to forget that plants are some of the oldest forms of life on the earth. They have survived (and thrived) for so long because just like us they can make more of themselves. Most often you see this in action as something you plant that spreads all over, often quickly. Even in harsh climates plants can adapt through changes in evolution enabled by propagation. No matter what, they will find a way to survive.

No matter what plant we're talking about there are only two types of plant propagation: sexual and asexual. Within those two there are various methods to propagate but in the end, those two are it.


SEXUAL PROPAGATION
Basically, the seeds you buy in the spring are the result of this method. There's a great reference here at OSU's extension and at Wikipedia but here are the basics. Plants that reproduce sexually contain male parts called the stamen and female parts called the pistil. Each one is comprised of several pieces, but essentially the male parts contain the pollen which is carried to the female part where it eventually becomes a seed.

THE WORLD ISN'T PERFECT?
In some plant species flowers can be male or female, these plants/flowers are referred to as "imperfect". Some examples of these are cucumbers, pumpkins and melons. When you plant these types you must plant both males and females near each other. Unfortunately, there is no way to determine the sex of the seed so make sure you plant several. Once the flowers mature you will be able to determine which ones are which and remove extra plants.

Since "imperfect" plants are unable to move around on their own to distribute their pollen the rely on "pollinators" to do the job for them. Sometimes the wind is enough but since it's more unreliable they count on things like bees and butterflies to help out. If you plan on growing species that are imperfect, make sure to plant things that will attract butterflies and bees. You can do it manually with a q-tip, but that's for a future article.

So, the opposite of imperfect are "perfect flowers", these are ones that have both male and female parts on the same flower. Examples of these are tomatoes, peppers, lilies and roses. These don't necessarily require pollinators as a light wind is usually enough. However, I have found that when you have pollinators around vegetables of this type you will end up with a better harvest.

From the plant's perspective, the whole goal of this exercise isn't to produce tomatoes for your award winning sauce, it's simply a matter of the need to survive through seed production. Now, having all this pollen from different plants being moved around opens up the opportunity for genetic material to spread. The result of this can be unusual or completely new plants! Taking pollen from one type of plant and pollinating a different plant is called "hybridizing" or "crossing". This in itself is a massive subject which I'll deal with in a different post.


ASEXUAL PROPAGATION
As I mentioned before there are two basic propagation methods, the second one is asexual. At this point you have probably guessed this is propagation through something *other* than seed. Depending on the type of plant there can be several method of asexual reproduction, the most common are tuberous, bulbous and self-rooting.

Tuberous propagation is where the root system of a plant starts lateral growth from each side of the plant. As these "tubers" move through the soil they send new plant stalks up through the ground. On the surface these tend to look like completely separate plants, however under the ground they're connected. At some point, these connections become severed, either by old age or more commonly by an underground animal. Once severed, each plant is on it's own to start shooting out more tubers to create new plants. These tubers can be dug up prior to the plant going dormant, split into pieces then planted individually the next season.

I'm guessing you have noticed "bulbous propagation" contains the word bulb in it. If you garden even just a little chances are pretty good you have planted bulbs. Things like tulips and hyacinth fall into this class. Bulbous propagation is similar to tubers in that it occurs under the ground. Here however a large bulb is planted and over a succession of seasons small "bulbettes" form in a cluster around the base of the parent bulb. Season after season these baby bulbs grow larger and larger and eventually disconnect from their parent. Once that has occurred, these new parents are free to start forming their own bulbettes and the cycle continues. When the bulbettes are about two thirds mature you can manually split them from the parent in the spring or fall and replant them. This is precisely what professional bulb companies do. They dig the bulbs up, remove and replant the babies then dry and sell the parents to us.

The last asexual method I call "self-rooting" and is my absolute favorite. If you have some ivy around take a close look around where the leaves are attached to the stem of the plant. Chances are good you will see little creamy white "nodules" around that area. Many people mistake these as disease but in fact they are new root systems under development. Get these little roots anywhere near soil and they will almost immediately shoot into the ground. From that point they push out new foliage and stems and the process starts all over again. Commercial growers take cuttings of plants and exploit this propagation method to produce tons of plant material all over the world. It is by far the fastest and most reliable method to propagate many types of plants. I have used this method for years on MANY types of plants, just a few examples are coleus, basil, sweet potato vine, petunias, impatiens, alternanthera and all of the mums I grow come in as rooted cuttings. Details on how to do this will come in a future article, however if you Google for "plant cuttings" you will find tons of results.


GENETIC DIVERSITY
Even this basic introduction on plant propagation requires some introduction to plant genetics. Don't let this scare you off, they are quite similar to us. Every male and female plant flower contains the genetic material to reproduce that plant. During the fertilization process this genetic material is passed to the children of those plants. And, just like humans, there is a ton of genetic diversity which can cause a plant to evolve over time. It is because of this that sexual propagation can, and often does, lead to different plants. If you are a parent of several children you know this for a fact, even though they have the same parents each child is different. Yes, I know there can be twins and such, but this is not the norm. This is a huge subject, enough for books, but the basic thing to take away is this: sexual reproduction (seed) won't always produce the same plant as the parents.

Asexual propagation is the opposite, it's like cloning the parent. In fact, rooted cuttings will be a copy of the parent plant. Well, there can be exceptions referred to as "sports" but that's for another conversation as well. Bulbous and tuberous propagation produce almost carbon copies but the chance for "genetic drift" is slightly higher.


CAN THEY DO BOTH?
As a matter of fact, many plants can be propagated both sexually and asexually. A really good example of this is the coleus. Coleus has perfect flowers (male and female parts) and will produce seed that can be grown into new plants. At the same time, you can take cuttings from it and root them for a copy of it. Why would you choose one over the other? Back to genetic diversity, the chances are pretty good that the seed from that plant won't look like the parent. The cutting will.

Now, in a variety where the genetics have been stabilized it could be just a matter of convenience. Many tomatoes, especially heirlooms, have been around for so many years that the seed are almost always "true". Grow them, save some seed and the next year you have a really good chance they will be the same. However, if you want to push the growing cycle, root a cutting from the parent and you magically get a 6-8 week head start. I do this all the time with many types of plants. We maintain what is called "stock" material for precisely this purpose. I always have the option of starting that plant from seed but many times I can dramatically reduce the growing time, sometimes by half.


MORE TO COME
Hopefully you have a better understanding of the basic of plant propagation. In the future I will address things like genetic drift in more detail and how to avoid it. As always, comments are welcomed!

Saturday, July 25, 2009

Greenhouse tray sizes

HELP!?
How many times have you been looking around the garden center looking at labels and wonder what numbers like 1208, 1803 and 606 are? Even worse, if you start your own seeds and order from any of the supply companies it gets even more difficult to understand. I myself suffered from terminology shock when I first started gardening and found scarce help on terminology. So, I'm going to pass along what I have learned.

SIZE DOES MATTER
The foundation of understanding anything I am about to explain starts with one basic term: the standard size of a greenhouse tray. The image you see at the start of this article is the front and back of what is called a standard 1020 tray. These numbers indicate nothing other the width and length, in inches, of the tray: 10" by 20". In reality they're like 10.5" x 20.5" but you get the idea. Any time you hear someone refer to a "standard tray" or a "1020 tray", that's what they mean. These come in several flavors: with holes, without holes or a web tray (pictured to the right). These are ALL 1020 trays, just different types.

TO DO THEIR DUTY
To confuse you even more manufactures produce different weight trays as well. All this means is that the heavier the weight
, the heavier duty the tray is. For example, Dillen offers three different weights of trays: light, middle and heavy. Overall I prefer the mid-weight as they offer a good balance of price and durability.

YOU SAID 1020 WAS STANDARD
Unfortunately, the 1020 standard defines the OUTSIDE dimensions of the tray, NOT the inside. The result is that trays from different manufactures won't always fit inside each other. Yes, I did say it was standard but but it's a loose one. Basically, you're stuck buying trays from the same manufacture if you ever want to stack them. As an example, most of the time I use web trays for effective drainage but because they are flimsy I put them inside a solid tray for transport. If I purchased the web trays from Landmark and solid trays from Dillen I wouldn't be able to do this. I've tried, it doesn't work.

INSERT NEW TERM HERE
The next term describes
those little plastic things that go inside the tray, these are referred to as inserts. They come in all sorts of sizes depending on the application, crop and time of year in which they are used. The numbering system for these isn't really a standard per se but commonly used. Open up a hard goods catalog or go to the website of one of the manufactures and you'll see numbers like 3201, 1204, 1201, 606 and so on. These numbers describe the number of individual inserts that go in the tray and the number of "cells" per insert. For example a sheet of 1204's would have 12 individual inserts with 4 cells per insert. This is the most common size for spring bedding plants and vegetables, you have probably bought many of these. A 1201 (pictured above) would be 12 individual inserts with a single cell, these are commonly referred to as a "sheet of pots". Of course, like the trays, inserts from one manufacture most likely will not fit in a tray from another one.

SQUARE PEG, ROUND HOLE
Within the inserts themselves growers have different ideas on what the best way to grow small plants is. Some argue that a round cell in the insert is best for root development while others argue for a square. In some cases, manufactures have solved that by making the cell square with rounded edges. And even outside the square or round you have the 1803 which has 3 triangular cells per insert. Personally, I have taken to a round shape as that makes transplant into larger pots easier as my dibble creates a round hole.

HOW DEEP DO YOU GO?
Hopefully you've been keeping up with how exceptionally well these standards are maintained (hah). Similar to how the trays come in various flavors the inserts have options as well. Many of them can be purchased in different depths to handle crops that need additional root area. Most manufactures give them names such as "deep", "extra deep" or "jumbo". I have even seen manufactures use the cell depth in the product number instead of giving them names. Your mileage may vary between manufactures.

SLIM IT DOWN
At some point, I'm not exactly sure when, growers realized that 10"x20" consumed space in the greenhouse that many crops didn't need. Manufactures responded to this with trays that were still 20" long but slimmed down to a width of 8" to 9". Unfortunately, they didn't develop a standard term for this so each manufacture has their own names. Some call them "slim jim" others call them "skinnie minnie" and yet others call them "slimline" They're all the same idea, reduce the width of the tray so the growers can fit more trays per square foot in the greenhouse. A word of caution on these: standard 1020 inserts DO NOT fit in these trays. Not only that, many of them are considered seasonal or special order so you'll need to order PALLETS of them at a time.

IDENTIFY ME
Some manufactures will advertise something called a "tag locator" on their trays. Often times the part number is a "T" or "TL" in it. This is simply a small slot somewhere in the tray, usually on one of the sides, to insert a tag. Most often these are used to tag the tray with an order number, fertilizer rate or greenhouse location information. These are quite useful if you have an entire tray of a single variety but they're getting harder and harder to find since most trays grown for retail have a tag in each insert. These are more common with growers that supply to landscapers since they don't often tag the plants they plant. At anywhere from .03 to .25 per tag this can save a ton of cost in the long run.

PAY THE PIPER
Greenhouse trays are plastic and therefore require petroleum to produce. Over the past several years I have seen the cost of trays, inserts and pots at least double. There are a few manufactures out there developing alternative products, such as trays made out of rice hulls, straw or even manure. They haven't become all that popular and are still cost prohibitive. Until growers purchase them in large amounts the price will continue to be out of reach for most of us.

RECOMMENDATIONS
I hope on your next trip to the garden center you'll be able to understand the products you are looking at a little better.

A few things I have learned over the years when buying trays.
  • Purchase all of your material from the same manufacture. I can't stress this enough, this alone will save you a TON of aggravation.
  • Buy the heavier duty trays, they'll hold up for several years. That is unless you're growing and selling whole trays for a profit, for those buy as cheap as possible.
  • If you opt for the lower cost trays avoid moving them around. I try to limit moves in the greenhouse to 1 or 2 otherwise they crack and fall apart.
  • Use trays with holes or web flats for proper drainage. I've had better luck with the web flats holding up over time and because of the lower amount of plastic they cost about the same as cheap solid trays.
  • Find a good distributor and purchase all material from them to get maximum discounts.
USEFUL INSERT APPLICATIONS
  • 606 - Good general purpose insert for flowers and vegetables. Use these when you want the plants to get a little fuller and taller than those grown in 1204's.
  • 606 Deep - Good for pansies, petunias and violas. I use the plants from 1 of these inserts to plant up 10" hanging baskets. 6 deep rooted starts are perfect for a 10" basket.
  • 1204 - Almost the defacto for spring bedding plants and early vegetable transplants. In order to get around the normally huge minimum orders go to East Jordan Plastics, they have a 1 case minimum.
  • 1201 - Great for seed starting. Start 12 varieties in the space of a single flat. They don't tear easily so they can be reused 2-3 times.
  • 3201 - Our standard size herb and vegetable pot. A sheet of these has (32) 2.5" pots, 8 per row in 4 rows. They're extremely economical and allow for fairly large size plants early in the season. W